I am honestly feeling a bit speechless. Jordanian and general Arab hospitality is indeed world renowned, but the love I have felt these past several days is with little comparison. Turning 21 in Jordan was a dream realized.
We left on the day of my birthday, September 19th, to a city named As-Salt, as part of a general class excursion. This city is incredibly old and quite different from Amman. Located high in the mountains surrounding Amman, culturally, As-Salt is much more conservative. However, I say this with a specific qualification in that its conservatism isn’t negative, just a bit more reserved. Fewer foreigners, save for our large group of tourists, come to visit As-Salt. As such, we were quite distinguishable.
To be clear, however, there was never even a tingle of hostility. Instead, and everywhere we went, we were welcomed with huge and open embraces, by strangers and guides alike. Museums, mosques, restaurants, everywhere we went was lovely. The weather, once hot and dry, has since cooled down approximately 10 – 15 degrees. The vistas we were afforded from the various stops we visiter were incredible. Huge, open land with small villages and cities near and far. We ate at a traditional Jordanian restaurant which sits at the intersection of Catholic, Orthodox, Jewish, and Muslim families, all in one building. Eating with our hands, we soon after started to dance and I was invited to be part of a wedding ceremony reenactment. Following my “wedding,” I was surprised with a pair of delicious birthday cakes, loud music, and even more dancing from my peers and professors.
The following day, my host brother coordinated an additional surprise birthday party in a swanky Amman restaurant, again with several cakes, fireworks, and all my professors and peers.
And my final birthday celebration took place at the home of a family friend. His birthday was the day prior and we decided to throw a mutual celebration with his family. His wife, sons, and daughter are all very kind and to be so welcomed into their home meant quite a bit to me. We sang happy birthday in many different languages and had many different cakes and sweets, both of Western and Arab origin.
The extent to which my host family, peers, professors, and friends went to make sure I felt loved and respected and cared for is amazing, especially considering I have been in Jordan for less than 3 weeks.
Jordan is a country with hugely open arms and a wonderful heart. I am happy to be here.